Stephanie has asked for help with her ‘70’s Houston home, which she bought last year. Specifically she wants advice on how to fix up her family room, where her family spends most of their time.

“There’s just so much going on,” she says. “We hate the mantel on the fireplace, and are debating whether we should sheet rock over the top area (where the TV is) or just run the TV wires up through the ceiling and try to do some kind of magical “we’re hiding the wires” solution.

Then, there’s that huge blank wall and the large window opposite, which I have no idea how to properly drape. Help!”

This looks like a fun project; so let’s get to it.

Building Good Bones
Looking around the room I see one major problem right off the bat: mixed up scale. We’ve got The Three Bears going on here. The massive mantel is way too big, the crown and baseboard moldings are too small. Only the window casing is just right. So this is the place to start.

Crown molding can be a little tricky to install on your own, but it’s cheap and more than worth the price. Creating good bones in your home will add value to it. And nothing improves a room more than this kind of fix-up.

Additional Problems With Scale
Now I’m looking at the fireplace wall. Again, scale is an issue. The TV is massive. Because the mantel is so high, the TV is hung even higher. My neck aches just looking at it. Next, the shelves on either side are a nice idea, but they’re too skimpy. Finally, the fireplace looks dwarfed under both the TV and mantel. This wall needs to become a unified focal point. But first…

Where Does The TV Go?
Hanging the TV over a mantel often seems like a good idea. And sometimes it works really well. In this case it doesn’t. As I said, it’s too high. Moreover, there are problems with the wires. I could be wrong (someone let me know if I am) but you have to be very careful about dry walling directly over a fireplace. I believe you’ll run into problems with the fire code. And let’s face it, you don’t want your house burning down. A TV-Over-Fireplace solution works best when it’s part of new construction.

Stephanie, you were wondering what to do on this wall. I recommend moving the TV over here and buying a media unit designed to hold storage for a flat screen TV such as yours. I’ve chosen the Clifton Media Console ($499) from West Elm. It has a transitional look with dark wood. This height offers a more comfortable way to watch TV. And, placing it across from the sofa offers a better angle, too.

However, the TV console will interfere with the existing round sort of chair. I think the room would look better and more in proportion without it. Find another place for it, or sell it on Craig’s List and use the money to help pay for the spruce up. Again, it’s all about scale. Too much massive furniture is overwhelming. The sofa is enough.

Wonderful Window Treatments
I can see from the photo that the room faces the backyard with a pool (lucky!) and a tall fence behind it. Since privacy isn’t an issue, you don’t need curtains for function. Instead, create a frame for this lovely window with one long rod and panels on either side.

I’m not sure what sort of fabric you like, so here are some ideas. I came up with a Peyton Panel (on sale now) from Pottery Barn. It comes in several solid colors. Or, you could opt for a floral, such as Weaver’s Floral Pinch Pleat (starting at $299) from Country Curtains. You’ll want to choose a rod that extends about 9” beyond the edge of the  window. Below is an idea of what this could look like.

Also, take down the Roman shade. You need either three (one on each window) or none. Move the sofa out enough so that the curtains hang nicely.

The Fireplace!
I’ve saved the best for last. I suggest creating a wonderful focal point with your fireplace at its center. First, as a reminder, here’s the photo of the existing fireplace. 

Below is the area redone. Whitewashed brick creates a less mottled look. To createa a focal point, I’ve installed built-in bookshelves on either side of the fireplace. They sit directly on the hearth, with a new mantle that’s more in proportion. Here, I’ve used a traditional mantel - the Avery Mantel ($599) from Fireplace Mantels. To save money, buy an unfinished model and paint it to match the  bookshelves. The crown molding is repeated here as well.

An alternative is the create a simpler, more contemporary mantel that pulls the shelves together as a single unit. I’ve replaced the fire screen with one that’s a little larger with less ornament the contemporary style ($69.99) from Target. This will make the fireplace, in turn, seem larger.

Finally, hang a nice painting over the fireplace. As an example, I’ve used this Jodhpur Panel (over-priced at $249) from Pottery Barn.

Have I thought of everything? Stephanie, I hope you and your family will be happier with this room. It’s more functional, more nicely proportioned, and the built-ins and crown molding will add value to your home. You’ll have more storage as well.
I encourage everyone to weigh in with his or her opinions. When I work on these design dilemmas I always try to keep budgets and alternative styles in mind. How about you?

Melissa Summers believes that it’s okay to have a glass of wine during the day, which makes her my kind of gal. She’s also a fellow blogger and a Detroit suburbanite – just like me! However, we have yet to meet in real life. Whether or not we ever get around to it may depend on how well I do with her design dilemma. The pressure is on.

“I’m struggling with my front room,” says Melissa of her rented town home. “It has great bones, a huge window and I love our new sofa. I found a chair and a desk I like at thrift stores we also have a shelf my husband built with his brother. But…

The mantel is not my taste (very traditional) but it can’t change it at this point. I like the general vibe but it’s so boring. I would like to paint the desk and accent the bamboo on it. What color? My husband is saying white, I’m not sure if it will go with the black bookcase.”

Melissa would also like some advice about how to pull the room together with accessories she can take with her. Here’s what I’ve come up with.

Creating a focal point
Melissa wants to paint the desk as her first step. The problem here is that she’s running head first into my number one rule, which is to choose paint colors last. So, I suggest that she create a focal point with artwork over the fireplace first. Then, paint the desk to coordinate.

There are lots of ways to do this without spending a fortune. My favorite way is with photography. Here I’ve used a photograph from Olya Photography. Her images sell for $70 for a 20”x30” print. I’ve approximated that size and added a 4” mat. Other options include taking four close-up photos of flowers, or other colorful objects. Have them printed in a large format at Kinko’s. Buy Fjallsta frames ($19.99) at IKEA and hang them in a grid.

I like the mercury objects on the right side of the mantel. Remove the fruit, divide them in two and place them on either side of the mantel. Focal point accomplished.

Painting the desk
Melissa wanted to do something with the desk that will highlight the bamboo. To accomplish this, paint these features an accent color, such as red or hot pink. Then, paint the entire desk dark brown. (See my post on how to paint laminated furniture here). Then, sand off the brown to reveal the red. BUT…

This won’t look contemporary. I think the desk would look much better either all brown or painted a funky color that coordinates with the art, such as a burnt orange. The photo, above, is my very bad attempt at depicting the red under brown thing. White will be too loud. Don’t go there.

Melissa mentioned that she likes orange and has some orange accent pieces elsewhere in the house. Because Melissa might move, it’s smart to choose things that can happily fit into different room settings. She can combine them later if need be.

Accessories
I have a photo of some linen curtains from Restoration Hardware. They’re a nice neutral in a standard size. This is important if you want to have any chance of using them again elsewhere. However, I had an idiot moment and just  found Melissa’s photos which head this post. In the interest of time (and because the above idea is generally a good one) I didn’t redo the image.

But I think inset panels will work better than drapes with this window. Get out the trusty sewing machine and make up some ivory semi-sheer, pleated or gathered panels that will fit into the window casing and rise just above half-way. This will provide privacy and a contemporary look. It also uses a minimal amount of fabric, so the cost is low. You can find a great semi-sheer fabric over at Haberman’s.

I’ve chosen some pillows for the sofa that will tie the artwork in with the rest of the room and add some more color. The long pillows are from Rose & Radish. The square pillow is from Paper Cloud. Finally, hang the mirror over the desk and use the poster over the bookcase. This spreads the color throughout the room. The mirror will look great near the mercury objects.

That’s it. I think these simple things will tie this room together nicely. I hope Melissa likes my ideas, but I invite everyone to weigh in with ideas and resources of their own.

Today’s design dilemma involves redecorating a room for Becky, a 10-year old girl moving out of childhood and towards her teen years. She needs a look at matches her personality. Becky likes music and sports and is a great student. Her mom, Sandra, says, “I want her to have a bedroom that has her things. She is both a little girl and a “hip chick.”

Design concerns
Sandra told me that a big problem with the room is the lack of light. Becky’s room lost a window after some remodeling and the room is dark.

“I can’t stand the minty teal color,” says Sandra. “Becky’s first choice of color would be hot pink! I’ve had her bed in every possible spot and we re-arrange constantly. I can’t wait to get rid of the rug.”

Starting with a focal point
Becky loves Lilly Pulitzer. Fortunately, Lilly patterns are available in fabric by the yard. This was my starting point. The room needed a focal point. The bed is the obvious solution, but it was stuck in the corner. So I moved it in front of the window and added a Lilly Fabric curtain to frame both the window and the bed, thus creating a central focus to the room.

Color and Light
Currently, the room has no depth because the walls and carpet are the same hue with the shade (or value). It makes the room look flat, and darker than it really is. Contrast and a lighter tint of paint will make the most of the daylight. Another problem is the plantation shutter. It looks great, but cuts the daylight in half.
The solution is to paint the walls a light hue to reflect as much light as possible. I chose Benjamin Moore’s I Love You Pink. Paint the ceiling the same color. The trim could be painted green to match the fabric, or a darker pink, such as Benjamin Moore’s Hot Lips. Beware! My number one rule is to choose the paint last. Sandra will need to adjust the exact color after she chooses fabrics and sheets.

Even though there’s a ceiling fixture, Sandra says we still need more lighting. I placed table lamps by the bed and on the dresser. I removed the shutter and added a fabric roller shade for sleeping and privacy.
But we need some light and drama. A small chandelier is just the thing. I’ve hung it over the desk/dressing table. It’s the perfect thing for applying makeup.

Eliminating clutter
Becky’s room is a clutter factory – a typical teen problem. This room needs more storage with furnishings that work together. Currently, the separate pieces give the room a chopped-up look. I pulled it all together by adding two tall shelving units on either side of the desk. It frames the desk, with the chandelier, and the adjustable shelves take the clutter off the floor. These can work throughout Becky’s school years as her style changes. I removed the toy chest. She’s too old for that. I love the pink furry chair. It has a lot of personality. Next, I added a new bedside table that’s not skirted. Again, this diminishes the cluttered look.

Pulling the look together
I started with the Lilly Pulitzer fabric. Two choices are shown here, but there are lots of options. To pull the entire look together we need patterns that work with the Lilly and add texture and fun. I chose pink dots and stripes for the bed and a zebra-stripe rug for the floor.

Final thoughts
Sandra is a woman who loves to decorate. And she likes things to go together. So do I! A home looks best when the rooms work together. However, an exception sometimes needs to be made when it comes to teens. They’re rooms are their own planets – completely separate from the rest of the universe. They need that space to help them discover who they are. Sandra sounds like a mom who understands the concept of creating a beautiful room that still reflects her daughter’s personality.

For more thoughts on this subject, see my post on teen rooms. And don’t forget to weigh in with your thoughts and ideas!

Resources: Lilly Pulitzer fabric, PB Teen

My favorite color blog, Hue, has an interesting post about choosing color palettes for adjoining room. I thought you’d enjoy reading it.

“What do you do when you have combined living spaces that flow together? Do you paint them all the same color? How do you visually separate the spaces? Or do you want to make them more cohesive? We’ve got a great example of this quandary, submitted by reader Mary Beth. ”

To read the rest, visit Hue, here.

I received a note from Kathryn, a mother of two small children. She’s moving into Navy housing, with wall-to-wall carpeting in the dining room, which she can’t change. The carpet is a slate/clay gray.

Kathryn is concerned about keeping the carpeting clean with two little ones at the table. Her idea is to buy a bullet-proof area rug to place over the wall-to-wall. However, she’s concerned that the weight of the dining table and chairs will keep the rug from laying properly. Also, she asks, “Is it tacky to put down a large outdoor rug under the table that can be easily cleaned?”

The answer is - of course not! It all depends on scale and style.

Kathryn’s been shopping on-line and likes the Sunbrella Framed Outdoor carpet from Restoration Hardware. It’s only available on-line, so she can’t see it in person. It comes in several sizes and colors. A 9′ x 12′ sells for $800, plus $80 for shipping.

The Restoration Hardware rug is made of Olefin, a perfect material for indoor/outdoor use, as it can be washed down with a hose. The only issue is that, depending on the type of dye used, it can sometimes lose its color when washed.

Scale
The dining room is 9′ x 11′ and her dining table is 60″ x 40″ wide. It’s important to choose a rug that’s large enough to fit the chairs underneath. An 8′ x 10′ rug would fit perfectly in the room and allow for plenty of room for both the table and chairs. That size is standard. Chances are Kathryn will be able to use the rug again when she moves.

Restoration Hardware’s Outdoor Rug

Style
A sisal-style rug is a nice option that works with any style - especially when placed over a wall-to-wall carpet. Plus, since Navy personnel move a lot, a neutral style is a smart choice. As for color, I recommend that Kathryn look for a warm-toned neutral. That’s because the existing carpet is a warm gray. Warm tones looks better with other warm tones. Same thing with cool tones.

Shopping
No doubt the Restoration Hardware carpet is nice and their quality is great, in my experience. However, for this project spending $880 is about $300 too much. And for something that is guaranteed to take a lot of spills, that’s a lot of money.

RH’s rug costs $11 per square foot. Remember, that price includes an expensive binding. Nevertheless, she’ll be able to find a similar product for $3.50 - $5.50 per square foot if she goes to a regular carpet store (and I don’t mean Discount Carpet Barn). Memorial Day weekend is the perfect time to shop - there’ll be sales galore. Don’t be afraid to haggle. I do it all the time.

Any carpet can be made into an area rug. Carpet stores offer various choices of binding - from tape, to a poly binding. Kathryn can find the perfect choice for her, with lots of colors to choose from, that she can see in person by taking this route. Keep this in mind, carpeting is usually woven in 12′ widths. If you want a 10′x 8′ area rug, you still have to pay for the 12′ width. Even so, this is still a less expensive option.

One last thing regards how the carpet will lay over the existing wall-to-wall. Kathryn is right in thinking that it will pucker if she uses it alone. Carpet shops sell mats and pads that are designed specifically for this purpose. They help the rug to lay properly and protect the carpet underneath from damage.

Kathryn, I hope this helps you out. Send me a photo of your final choice and I’ll help you choose the fabric for the dining room chairs.

Oh, and the first person to send me a photo of their finished products gets a free Design Hole T-shirt. I keep asking, now I’m resorting to bribes! :)

Yesterday I wrote about a particular style of sofa I see all too often. Please understand that this is my personal opinion (professional as it may be), but there is nothing good about this style.

Winner of Design Hole’s prize for ugliest sofa in the world

These are always found at your less-expensive furniture stores, which I’m sure is part of the reason why they’re appealing. However, they’re cheap for a reason - the quality is non-existent. They’re priced to sell, not to live with. As for quality, these are made with staple-guns and glue. The fabrics are thin and not designed to last. Same thing with the foam cushioning. So, you’re saving money in the short run for something that will need replacing in two years.

A classic style allows you to design around it.
Mix it with antiques or contemporary elements.

Worse, these are so large in scale and puffy that it’s very difficult to find anything to pair with it. You’re kind of stuck with the puffy look. This is why they’re almost always sold as a set.

How do you choose a sofa that will stand the test of time and offer a sense of style and proper proportion? And let’s assume the budget is limited. Here are some resources and suggestions.

• Choose a classic style and build around it. A rolled-arm, two or three cushion sofa is a great option. It will never go out of style and is a perfect choice for anyone who wants a basic look they can build around.

Crate & Barrel’s Huntley Sofa

• Choose a solid color fabric. You can give it a punch of style by adding some patterned toss pillows or a throw blanket.
• Pay attention to scale. This is so important. If your room is small, look for a sofa with a smaller scale. Crate and Barrel’s Potomac Collection is designed for apartment living and smaller rooms. An over-stuffed model will look great in a larger room.
• Ask who manufactures the sofa you’re considering. Vanguard and Lee Industries make a lot of sofas for other brands, like Pottery Barn. Vanguard is solid and sells furniture under its own name. Lee does the same and is a more budget-oriented brand.

A style from Vanguard (not such great fabric) in a classic style.

• Ask about how the sofa is constructed. And don’t be afraid to kick the tires. Look underneath. If there are clumps of dried glue, move on. A lot of people talk about 8-way hand tied springs. No doubt those are great. But you won’t find them in a budget model. That’s okay. You can still find a nice sofa without them.

A classic style from Lee

• Finally, you should expect to pay about $1,500 - $2,000 for a sofa that will hold up through the years. If that sounds like a lot of money, consider that it will last longer than the puffy $500 model that’s perpetually on sale.

Do you have a favorite sofa resource? Why not share it with everyone?

Continuing with the idea of kitchens and family rooms living as one, here’s a photo essay of kitchens from Milan. (Did you know that Italy ranks number two in the world when it comes to kitchen sales?) Notice how the dining tables are creatively integrated into the workspace. I also love the new way cabinet doors are opening and their larger widths.

Archlinea used larch for their table.

One of Snaidero’s kitchens with a more furniture-like look to it. I like the way the upper cabinet doors open.

Not such a great photo, but this was an interesting way to incorporate a cooktop with a dining table.

Another Snaidero kitchen. I like the way the shelving runs across the wall - moving from kitchen utility to decorative space.

See more after the jump.

(more…)

Alicia writes that she is trying to figure out drapes for her living room. She is thinking of installing a long wooden rod with pretty finials and simple drapery panels in-between each window and the ends. She’s considering a cocoa brown Dupioni silk, and bringing in other colors with pillows.

There really are a thousand and one ways to treat windows. And I think Alicia is off to a great start. But first, a short editorial comment. It’s a completely personal thing, but I don’t like the window-on-top-of-another-window look. I think architects put them there because the ceiling is high and the wall looks so naked (!). It would be much better if there wasn’t that swath of wall between the two tiers. Which is probably the very reason why Alicia is scratching her head, wondering what to do.

Here’s what I would do. To start off, I’d install roman shades to cover the top windows and the wall in between. This will eliminate that chopped up look. Panels come next. Layering the window will give them more depth and help focus the room. I’ve got a couple of suggestions for this.

For a contemporary feeling, I frame the windows with folded pleats of fabric, attached with hooks, to a fat rod. That’s four panels - one at either end of the set of windows. A metal rod will look contemporary. Use wood for something more transitional. The rods don’t have to extend across the windows. Alicia can use four shorter rods used just to hand the windows.

A close-up view

A more traditional look can be achieved using padded, fabric covered cornices. (Remember we’re still using the Roman shades.) Full, pleated panels frame each window. I like the idea of four panels, but if the fabric is full, using eight will create a really lush look.

As for the Dupioni silk, it’s a nice choice. Here are some things to consider. First, the room gets a lot of sunlight, which will fade and damage the silk. The damage takes a fairly long time, but the fading won’t. Using a synthetic fabric will resist the fading and sun damage. Some of my clients opt for covering their windows with a sun-protective film. Second, because the windows are so tall and silk is a thin fabric, I’d recommend using an interlining so that the panels look more full. I use interlining on almost all my window treatments.

Alicia, I hope my ideas have helped you with your dilemma. As I said, there are so many ways to handle a window. I’ve given you a couple of ideas that I really like.

images: Window Style

Here’s the question I received from a very frustrated couple who are trying to choose a paint color for their hallway. Joan says, “We have put picture frame molding and a chair rail on our stairway. We are about to paint and plan to keep the lower half white. It is the upper half that is a problem. It would be the stairway and upstairs hall which is a bit dark so we don’t want too dark of a color but we want a bit of contrast with the white. We have put samples on the wall and are not happy with any of them. They are Stone House (too dark). Asian Jute (also very dark and maybe too goldish). Bradstreet Beige (looks like flesh).

My husband thought he would like green but we have a lot of green in the house and that seems like it would be too much. I think we are looking for a neutral color that would work. Any suggestions?”

This sounds like a case of “Deer in the Headlights Syndrome.” What do you do when there are so many colors to choose from and you don’t really know what you want? Here are some tips:

Don’t be afraid of going too dark due to lack of light. No matter what color you paint the walls, if there isn’t enough light, it will still look dark. Color and lighting are two separate issues. As long as you’re painting the ceiling, why not add some downlighting? As for the paint, a mid-tone or more saturated color can make a big impact in the hallway, since there usually isn’t a lot of other things going on. Don’t be afraid of color. The color in the photo you sent is very safe, but boring. Find a color you love and go for it.

But which color? The first thing I would do is analyze where you’ve used other colors in the house. And what colors you like, in general. What color are the adjacent rooms? Where is the green that you like? Match your favorite green and the adjacent colors with paint swatches. You can use these to create a palette. If you really like green, you could go with a lighter or darker shade than the one you already have. As long as it isn’t all the same value, I wouldn’t worry about too much green if that’s a color you love.

From the description of the paint colors you’ve tried and don’t like, I’m thinking that you’re trying to choose a color that won’t look like a color. There’s nothing wrong with a neutral, but choose one you like. Try going more gray than gold or beige. A grayer taupe looks great with green. Just be sure you’re matching warm greens to warm taupe, cool greens with cooler grays.

The images, above are from Valspar and Benjamin Moore’s sites. Almost all paint manufacturers have a personal color viewer, wherein you choose a room and virtually paint it. Try it. This way, you can go wild with color risk-free. You may just find that the hue you love the most is red.

One final thought. The entrance to your home is the first thing you see when you come home. It’s the first thing your guests see. First impressions count. Cast your color fears aside. This is the place to really make a statement.

Design Hole reader, Diane, asked me to help her with some Do-It-Yourself advice on painting her grown daughter’s childhood furniture. She wants to redecorate the room now that her daughter is gone and paint the furniture possibly using a glaze.

The dilemma? How do you paint furniture, in general, and how do you paint furniture with a mix of materials? In this case that combination is pine and a laminate top. Laminate can be tricky to paint and needs special preparation and sealant.

While this is more of a how-to than a design issue, I’m happy to help. It’s an interest of mine, since I recently had a similar issue involving sealing a newly painted counter.

Glaze or No Glaze?
Diane also asked about using a glaze. Here I can put my creative opinion to good use. Don’t do it. Glazes are nice on kitchen cabinets and furniture when used to give a more dimensional, lived-in look. But it can be tricky, since the glaze is applied only in certain areas. So, unless you have experience I’d suggest keeping it simple.

Oil v Latex
I’m an oil-based paint girl. It smells, but you get a smooth finish. I even add a paint conditioner to slow down the drying time for an even smoother finish. (Oil paint can get gummy.) It wears longer than latex. I even prefer the clean-up. It’s faster and better than with latex, the thinner is disposed with the paint (latex included - check with your city for the right method). Latex gets washed down the drain. The down-side with oil is that it yellows over time. If you’re painting anything white, you’ll have to take that into account, and latex may be preferable.

Painting Laminate
There isn’t a great secret to painting laminate except to prep the surface carefully and seal it with polyurethane once it’s painted. You can even paint your kitchen counters with great results.

How To Paint Wood & Laminate Furniture
Here are step-by-step instructions. Diane, ask your paint dealer for any special tips regarding covering the pine knots. In my experience, one coat of primer isn’t enough. They’ll bleed through after a few months. Also, use quality, natural bristle brushes designed for oil or latex. Finally, use good quality paint.

1. Sand with 100 grit sandpaper and use a tack cloth to remove all dust.
2. Wash with TSP (trisodiumphosphate). Then rinse clear water and allow to dry completely.
3. Paint surface with one layer of Kilz primer with a foam roller or brush.
4. Using a good quality brush paint the furniture with two coats of latex or oil based paint. Allow plenty of drying time between coats.
5. If you desire, apply a glaze following the product’s directions.
6. Now you’re ready to apply the polyurethane to the laminate. Prep a fine quality, natural bristle brush by soaking it in mineral spirits. Remove the brush and wring it out lightly, just so it’s not dripping wet.
7. Apply the polyurethane. Go with thin coats; do not over brush and slow down your brush strokes a bit. Apply 4-5 coats of polyurethane, letting each dry overnight, and sand with 000 steel wool between each coat. It will look very dull. The last coat of poly will not be “sanded” with the steel wool.
8. Tip: When using polyurethane, do not shake or stir the can of polyurethane before application. Shaking a clear sealer like this may create unwanted bubbles in the finish.
9. Allow final coat to dry at least 2 days before using.

Diane, I hope this helps you with your project. Don’t forget to send me photos of the finished furniture. (I should offer a prize to the first person to send an After photo. :))

In the meantime, If anyone out there has advice of their own to offer, please leave a comment. I have never painted with a glaze, so I can’t help out there. Can someone else?

Okay, here we go with part two of Troy and Sheila’s design dilemma. In part one I tackled how to spruce up their living and dining rooms. We dealt with the floors, walls and trim. I also discussed window treatments. Now, we need to address the furnishings.

There are two design elements I’m always stressing - scale and choosing paint colors last. Let’s discuss the first. The furniture in Troy’s living room is too large. It overwhelms the space. In any small room it’s important to keep things simple and in proportion. Since the furniture has seen better days, maybe it’s time to replace it with something smaller.

I’ve drawn a simple furniture arrangement. These simple elements leave plenty of room for traffic (which is the room’s principle function). The sofa needs to be on the long wall to allow people to enter the home without banging into furniture.

The room is small enough that you could get away with a love seat. My favorite, inexpensive sofa/loveseat is IKEA’s Ektorp. The kids can spill things without worry because the replaceable slip covers are machine washable. Add an armchair, side table and coffee table and you’re set for furniture. Add a floor and table lamp and you’ve got your lighting squared away as well. Troy lives in New Jersey, which is relatively close to several IKEA stores. Rent a U-Haul to save on delivery charges.

Is IKEA too boring? You can find lots of things at estate sales and thrift shops. Just keep the scale in mind - smaller is better. Keep frills to a minimum.

Now for accessories. Again, keep things simple. Get rid of all the extra clutter. Arrange artwork, in the same finish, such as silver or black, in groupings (see my post on how to hang artwork). Add a room-sized rug (see my post on rugs). Clear the mantle - photographs look better on a table.

Finally, a comment on paint. Choose the paint color last. I chose a couple of nice paint palettes for Troy and Sheila’s rooms in my previous post. It’s important that they make all their other design decisions before buying the paint. Why? Because paint can be matched to anything under the sun. Fabrics come in a limited variety. Use the paint colors as a guide and be prepared to alter them slightly once other decisions are made.

Phew! Troy and Sheila have their work cut out for them. As long as they’re patient, and take things one step and a time, their living and dining rooms will become welcoming environments they’ll be thinking of excuses to use.

I received a wonderful series of emails from Troy, a firefighter from New Jersey who wants help with his home. He lives in this beautiful home with his wife, Sheila, and their four children. Troy Sheila are ready for some home improvements and want some advice on color, accessories and furniture.

The budget is a key factor. They’re raising have four children, so no need to say more. Like most of us, they spend much of their time in their family room - an addition with plenty of room. But the living and dining rooms have been neglected.

Troy told me that he could make a coffee table. That’s great, because what these rooms need is someone with carpentry and painting skills. Not having to hire someone will save lots of money and make this project possible. We’re going to start from the floor and move on up. Let’s get going.

Refinish the floors: Troy sent me a close-up of the floors. The finish has worn off, and since this is a heavy traffic area, the floors need to be sanded and coated with a polyurethane. You can rent sanders at Home Depot and do it yourself. It does take a bit of skill, but if my mother can do it (and she did) then anyone can. Here’s a how-to link. Use a satin finish to avoid a bowling alley look.

Finish the trim: The thing I love about this home is the beautiful trimwork around the doors and windows. It looks like the dining room ceiling is coffered, too. But the job needs to be finished. Add some matching trim around the French doors, and ceiling molding in the dining room. Take a photo to your local lumber store (not Home Depot - find a specialty shop). you can also make a template in order to match the existing trim.

Repair the walls: Before you can paint, you need to repair the plaster on the walls. This isn’t difficult as long as you have the right trowel. Here’s a how-to link. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Now let’s move on to the colors and furnishings. This is hard to do via the Internet because I don’t know Troy and Sheila. They did give me an idea about what they might like. So, with my fingers crossed, I came up with a couple of palettes.

Here are two images from Benjamin Moore’s site. The first uses Rosemary Sprig as the living room color, with Hawthorne York for dining. The second features Alexandria Beige for living and Ladybug Red for dining. These hues can be mixed and matched - they all go together nicely.
I’d like to see the ceiling between the coffers in the dining room painted a color like the Ladybug Red. If the walls are red, then paint the ceiling the Beige. The contrast with the trim color will make the room more romantic and make the most of this extra feature.

Troy also asked me about curtains and furnishings. These rooms are small, so keep things simple. The window trim is so beautiful, why cover it up? I suggest a simple window treatment of gathered sheers using a natural fiber (no polyester - too shiny). Using 2-1/2 times the width of the window, create pocket rod curtains that rise to just higher than the middle of the window. I’ve chosen a sheer linen from Designer Fabrics Online. It’s inexpensive, can be made easily, and you don’t need to buy expensive rods.

Doing all the things, above, will give your rooms good bones. They’ll also add to the value of your home. Troy, aren’t you glad I’ve given you all these things to do? I know you were wondering what to do with your weekends.

There’s lots more I have to say, but I’ve run out of time. I’ll address the decoration in a separate post later today. In the meantime, why not give Troy and Sheila the benefit of your advice? How would you decorate these rooms? Who can choose a nice fabric for the dining room chairs?